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Active Ingredient 02-Vitamin C

Updated: Oct 3, 2023




As a potent antioxidant, vitamin C is a hero ingredient that protects the skin from oxidative damage caused by pollution, UV exposure and the blue light from the electronic screens. vitamin C has a stellar reputation and impressive track record that combat uneven skin tone to fine lines and wrinkles.That is the tip of the peel!

vitamin C can be added to many skincare formulas, from cleansers to moisturizers, but a serum form is the most ideal for maximum benefit due to its higher concentration. This citrus wonder particular ingredients matters. Let's explore the different types of vitamin C in skincare formulations.





 

Vitamin C Key Ingredients





Ascorbic Acid

Most skincare brands will have Ascorbic acid or L-Ascorbic acid near the top of the ingredients.

It is the most well researched Vitamin C in the skincare industry, and the most effective at penetrating the skin barrier. Ascorbic acid is water soluble and breaks down easily when exposed to air and light, rendering it inactive and potentially damaging to skin.

  • Known to be the most potent and efficacious form of vitamin C

  • Unstable, so must be paired with other antioxidant such as vitamin E, Ferulic Acid or glutathione.

  • Ideal concentration is 10-20% especially stubborn pigmentation, normal or oily skin but if you have dry,or sensitive skin, a lower percentage is advisable.

  • SPF should be worn with the combination of vitamin C for daytime use.


Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

This ingredient is great for all skin types but it is less intense. It is a mineral form sometimes referred to as "Vitamin C Salt" where it converts into Ascorbic acid when applied to the skin.

  • Behaves less erratically than Ascorbic acid when exposed to light and air.

  • This form of vitamin C is less irritating for sensitive or reactive skin which allows for stronger concentration in the formula.

  • It must be combined with liquid ingredients to topically applied to skin.


Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Easily absorb and one of the most stabilized source of Vitamin C. It is hydrating in its class, reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and effectively soothe skin irritations with its anti-inflammatory properties. It is proven to be effective as a topical antioxidant to correct discoloration, acne scarring and overall skin tone balancing.

  • It is photo protective and boost collagen production

  • Water soluble form of Vitamin C

  • Great for acne prone skin and helps prevent oxidation that leads to blackheads.

  • It plays nice with Niacimide (Vitamin B3)


Sodium Ascorbate

Like its cousin, Sodium Ascorbate falls under the category of mineral salts. It is a buffered and lower acidity form of Ascorbic acid. It is more stable when exposed to light and air. Sodium Ascorbate coverts to ascorbic acid when applied to the skin.

  • Stimulate collagen and elastin

  • Antioxidant

  • helps to lighten skin discoloration


Ascorbyl Palmitate

has a milder effects on the skin than Ascorbic acid. It is still beneficial in aiding in the production of collagen, mitigating hyper-pigmentation and improving skin texture

  • Fat/Lipid soluble form which makes it more stable

  • Good option for sensitive or reactive skin.

  • Less potent form of vitamin C


Ascorbyl Glucoside

greater stability that L-Ascorbic acid, a form of vitamin C that easily penetrates the skin. Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C with sugar glucose derived from natural starch such a s rice. Once it is absorbed into the skin, it breaks down gradually into Ascorbic acid creating a reservoir effect within the skin. It acts as a coenzyme for enzymes involved in the collagen synthesis.


  • Inhibits the synthesis of melanin

  • Brightens and improved tone

  • Antioxidants to improves skin's environmental defenses.


Calcium Ascorbate

known as Ester C, it has a hydrating effects and play a role in collagen synthesis, tissue and wound repair, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles



 


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